Put simply, vintage Movado has finally received the spotlight it deserves. The modern-day mall brand’s much superior vintage offerings have had their ups and downs with collectors in the past few decades but have seemingly found level. Even fans today might not know that back in the late 1990s, major auction house catalogs were littered with vintage Movado, sometimes at higher estimates that would relatively blow our minds. One October 1999 Sotheby’s sale offered a polished but original yellow-gold Movado M95 Sub-Sea in lot 216 with an estimate of $3-3.5k; in lot 106 was, offered together, a matte “Meters First” dial 5513 Submariner and a 1970 Omega Speedmaster, all for an estimate of $2-2.5k. Sure, other variables are at play here, namely sport models not being in vogue at the time. What collectors at that time seemed to value given auction curation and results was quality above all else, Patek, Cartier, Audemars, and Vacheron ruled the day. Along with Movado, whose quality was recognized and rewarded by the same collectors.
Movado dates back to 1881 and was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Its history is similar to a lot of Swiss watch brands in having a period of quality, then an acquisition around the quartz crisis, and lastly being a part of a larger group of brands into the 21st century. Early Movado is where most attention is drawn to, specifically the 1930s to 1960s, where the brand produced highly finished wristwatches with in-house and technically fantastic movements. In 1969, Movado joined forces with Zenith and Mondia creating, you guessed it, Movado-Zenith-Mondia. For Movado branded watches, the new group meant mainly Zenith movements, which are nothing to scoff at including the El Primero, replacing their own. Later in the 80s, Movado themselves spawned a conglomeration under the name North American Watch Corp and later Movado Group Inc, which operates out of the US and recently acquired MVMT—a brand we hope to never feature.
This 1950’s Movado Time-Only 18k Rose Gold dress watch would have originally been made for a man but now is sized much more appropriately for a modern woman at 32mm. It features a typical design for the 1950s when small simple dress watches were very much in vogue. For us this watch is all about its beautiful case design and especially the pointed lugs which are quite uncommon. It’s a subtle bit of design that visually lengthens the watch and differentiates this model from many of its contemporaries. The fact that this watch is cased in rose gold is just the icing on the cake. Mix and match this with your favorite strap and enjoy.
The 18k rose gold case is in excellent condition with no major flaws to note outside of a zenith signed replacement crown that fits the watch nicely. Also of note is that this case was manufactured by Favre & Perret. We know this because of the hammerhead Poincon de Maitre that is stamped on the inside of the case. Each of these hammerhead markings has a number inside of it and that number correlates to a specific manufacture and the 115 number shown here was assigned to Favre & Perret. Also shown on the inside of the caseback is the “watch in the hand” logo for Movado.
The Dial and Hands
The dial and hands are also in excellent condition. There is some minor oxidation on the hands and dial that should be noted but it adds to the vintage feel of the watch. The dial itself is of a simple design featuring applied hour markers in rose gold and a small seconds hand overlaid on top of a non-outlined crosshair. Additionally, there is no lume on the dial to worry about which adds to the classic looks of this piece.
This watch features a manual wind 17 jewel movement. The seller states that the movement has recently been serviced.
|Location||New York City|
|Movement||Manual, 17 Jewel|
|Case Material||18k Rose Gold|
|Band Material||Leather Strap|