In 1930, a steamboat departed from the United State’s east coast loaded with all of the manufacturing equipment, parts, and works in progress from the defunct Dueber-Hampden Watch Company headed for the USSR. Also aboard the ship were 21 Dueber-Hampden employees. The USSR needed watches for their military and by purchasing an American watch company – as well as a contract to have their employees teach them the craft – they planned on creating an entire watch industry themselves. Fast forward 30 years, the Russian watch industry was in full swing producing watches for both military and civilian purposes. It was the Russians, after all, who sent the first watch into space and the first watch to accompany a cosmonaut on a spacewalk. No small feat for a relatively nascent industry.
Building on their national success, 1964 saw the launch of the Puljot brand, which would become the flagship brand of the USSR’s watch industry.
Today, we have for auction a 1980’s Puljot 3133 Chronograph. The 3133 movement was the first major production chronograph movement that the USSR made. The movement itself is largely based on the Valjoux 7734 with rumors of the USSR even purchasing the tooling from Valoux to make it, albeit unsubstantiated. Initially, watches equipped with the 3133 were intended for military officers of the navy fleet and military aviation staff but by 1983 the watches were generally available. This example of the 3133 dates to some time after 1986.
The 39mm case of this Puljot chronograph shows in very good condition, showing sharp lines throughout. The correct finishes are seen with a brushed finish on the top of the case and polished on the lugs and case sides. The pushers and crowns also appear to be correct. The mineral crystal also appears to be in very good condition with no major scratches or obstructions.
The Dial and Hands
There are 5 dial variants of the civilian versions of the Puljot 3133 Chronograph. This watch features variant number 5, which can be distinguished by the PULJOT font as well as the uppercase lettering in 23 JEWELS and USSR. The dial itself features a brushed silver sunburst pattern that is accented by vivid mint green lume plots behind the applied hour markers and a deep blue internal rotating 12-hour bezel. The handset is correct for the dial.
This watch features the Soviet-made manually wound chronograph movement 3133 with 23 jewels. The watch is keeping good time with all chronograph functions operating properly. The service history of the watch is unknown.
The watch comes on a non-original leather strap with buckle.
|Location||New York City|
|Movement||Manual Wind Puljot 3133|
|Case Material||Stainless Steel|
|Band Material||Leather Strap|