The story of Tudor is well-trodden so we’ll keep it brief, cliff notes style. The brand was founded and patented in 1926 by Veuve de Philippe Hüther, a Rolex distributor, on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf, the man behind the Rolex crown. Mr. Wilsdorf described the idea of Tudor as a brand sold “at a more modest price than our Rolex watches and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous.” Translation, take ebauche (ie – generic) movement calibers and put them in Rolex cases.
Tudor began to really take shape after Hans Wilsdorf officially took over the brand ten years later. Another decade after that, in 1946, he created a newer version of the brand, Montres Tudor SA. In the 1940s and early 1950s, Tudor heavily marketed itself as a tool watch company championing the Oyster case in the Tudor Oyster Prince, a model famously put to the test by the British Royal Navy in their 1952 North Greenland Expedition. Needless to say, it passed with flying colors.
Building on the tool watch ethos of the Oyster Prince, Tudor and Rolex wasted little time translating the first Rolex Submariner (ref. 6204) into the first Tudor Submariner (ref. 7922). From there, the Tudor Sub evolved aimed to serve a more professional diving market compared to its Rolex twin, notably forging a strong relationship with the French Navy, La Marine Nationale. The story goes that Tudor’s switch to “snowflake” dials and hands in the late 1960s was heavily influenced by these French divers who preferred the square lume plots and larger hands for increased legibility in murky conditions. For the Tudor Submariner product history in full, we cannot recommend tudorsub.com enough.
The Tudor Submariner for auction today is a reference 7016/0 with a rose dial, dating to early 1968. This dial and reference number combination is very uncommon and specific to a small serial range of 621xxx to 623xxx in which our example falls right in the middle at 622xxx. These early rose dials are carryovers from the previous reference generation of the Tudor Sub, leading to a simple conclusion that Tudor may have had some extra dials to use up.
Beyond the rose dial, and specific to this serial range of 7016/0 Tudor Subs, is a semi-pointed crown guard (SPCG) case. All other 7016/0s and most other Tudor Submariners, in general, are found with larger rounded crown guards. The SPCG case is specific only to this very small serial range.
This particular example was purchased by the seller one year ago from Craft & Tailored.
This example has a case that is preserved in great condition. A previous polish is evident but the original geometry of the case, particularly the lugs, remains mostly intact.
No serious scratches or gouges are seen on the caseback nor the crystal.
The Rolex “USA Made” C+I riveted Oyster stretch bracelet is stamped 7-66 and is in great condition showing little to no stretch. While unclear if this bracelet is original to this watch, it is period correct.
The Dial and Hands
The dial is in great to excellent condition with no obvious flaws seen in the finish and original lume plots that are undamaged and have aged to a pleasant cream hue. In some photos provided by the seller, dust spots appear on the dial but we believe them to be on the crystal due to photos of the dial in other lighting conditions.
The original hands appear to be untouched with matching lume hue to the dial. The handset is of the correct length and appears correct.
The ETA cal. 2483 is in good running order, keeping accurate time. Service history is unknown.
UPDATE: The original description listed a dent on the 7 o’clock lug. This description has been removed after we reviewed a video of the lug showing it without a dent leading us to believe that our earlier conclusion was the result of a reflection in the reviewed photograph.
|Movement||Automatic ETA cal. 2483|
|Dial||Black Mk1 - Rose|
|Case Material||Stainless Steel|
|Band Material||Stainless Steel Rolex USA C&I Riveted Oyster|
|Clasp Type||Single Deployment|